A lake, a snake, a baby

While the skilled workers were still constructing the classroom roof, the volunteers went on an excursion to a floating village on Tonie Sap lake. Tonie Sap is the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia. Clusters of houseboats have formed permanent settlements there, complete with floating schools and restaurants.

Photo by Sarah Rhodes of SiemReap.net (https://www.siemreap.net/visit/attractions/sightseeing/floating-villages/)

Houseboat with moorings made
from branches tied together

We paid a fare to board a tour boat and set out down the lake to the village. Rows of small houseboats lined the edges of the lake. As in Romdeng Village, the people who live on Tonie Sap spend most of their time outdoors, on the deck of their houseboats. Just like in Romdeng, we could see people doing all the activities of daily life--sleeping in hammocks, sweeping the floor, tending to their potted gardens. But here the experience felt very invasive. In Romdeng, we were just walking down the road and couldn't help but observe the people who lived there, just as they observed us and smiled and waved. But here, boat after boat of tourists had paid money to come gawk at impoverished people who were just trying to live their lives, and who would not see a cent of the money we had paid. It just felt wrong.

A nicer houseboat, with a container garden on the deck

At one point our tour boat paused for a while in the middle of the lake, and a rowboat approached. A mother was on board with her daughter, who looked to be about eight years old, and a baby perhaps ten months old. But the most notable passenger was an enormous snake wrapped around the girl’s shoulders. She called out, “Hold snake? Take picture? One dollar!” We took the snake onto the boat and passed it from person to person, grateful that its mouth was taped shut, while the girl collected our money.

Photo by James Sprenger

Meanwhile, a member of our party was taking pictures of the rowboat with the woman and baby. She stood the baby up on his feet and bounced him up and down with a big smile. “Hold baby? Picture? One dollar!” I was astonished to hear that offer, as was the other tourist, who quickly declined. But at the same time it makes perfect sense. If tourists are going to come to Cambodia to take pictures of the local people, then the local people should be able to profit from being the object of their gaze. I still wouldn't pay to hold or photograph someone else's baby, but I admire the woman's resourcefulness.

I paid the dollar.